Venezuela Uncovered: The End Of Our Trip

After a week of getting to know our surroundings and having a lovely relaxed time, we were more than ready to find a party. From our chats with the locals we had already established you need to be in the city for nightlife. It’s a shame that lack of tourism has led to all nightlife in the North closing down, but not wanting to be defeated we packed up our backpacks and headed to the city!

Like Sunsol, it’s hard to avoid the ad campaigns for Lidotel hotels, and we opted for the Lidotel Boutique Hotel in Pampatar. On arrival at the hotel it did seem quite odd, we were staying inside Sambil, the island’s version of Westfield! The hotel itself was a fit for purpose business hotel, saying it’s boutique is a stretch. Unlike the friendliness of Ikin this hotel operated in a very professional manner but could be perceived as cold. Once settled in our room we were very happy to receive a welcome gift of snacks, and on exploring the hotel we were impressed by the rooftop pool & hot tub that look amazing afterdark, but we weren’t here for the hotel, we were here for the party – so the question was, where to go?

Lidotel Boutique Hotel

Social media is probably the most useful tool for finding out where to have fun, so after trawling Instagram & Twitter #pampatar off we trotted to Beach Bar. The hotel got us a cab (everyone is very security focused!) and 10 minutes later we arrived at a very empty Beach Bar. Reassured that loads of people arrive late for the party we ordered dinner and cocktails and waited for the party to start over looking the sea. It never really did get super busy, but the crowd was very fun and were soon spinning us around the dancefloor teaching us the latest Salsa moves to the sounds of Marc Anthony. We stayed until closing and the owner called his driver to ensure that we got back to the hotel safely.

Beach Bar, Pampatar

Saturday we opted to check out Pampatar beach, being the closest available. The hotel staff were advising us to go to El Yaque but as that was part of our schedule we decided to stick to our plan. Pampatar beach is bustling with locals and salesmen selling everything from fish to photo shoots, and we were a little gutted we didn’t take enough cash to buy a hammock! We pitched up at a café on the beach where you could hire sunbeds. The staff were extremely friendly and even got a Bob Marley impersonator to serenade us – it was hilarious! Everyone drinks whisky on the beach, so feeling encouraged that a daytime drink would be a good idea we started on the vino, one glass later we were asleep! It seemed that the night before’s Beach Bar cocktails had taken their toll…

Saturday night we decided to treat ourselves by venturing to the Lobster House restaurant in Porlamor. We got there quite late so it was very quiet but the food and service was exceptional – we can recommend the lobster thermidor and garlic shrimp.

Lobster House, Porlamor

After dinner we headed to Bora Bora the island’s no.1 party spot (note – if you are a girl you don’t pay to enter). As soon as you walk into the club it’s a little bit like stepping into an episode of TOWIE with a latino twist. It didn’t take us long to bump into people that we had met along the way and ended up spending the evening partying with some of the Ikin staff. If you are planning a trip to Margarita this club is a must and the perfect place to wear those heels you had been wondering why you packed…

Bora Bora, Porlamor

Heading to El Yaque the next day was hard work with a hangover, but we were fortunate enough to discover it was only 20 minutes in a cab. When you enter El Yaque you go through a check point, the locals refer to this area as the UN as this is where people from all over the world have invested in land and the role of the checkpoint is to keep out troublemakers. The result is a very chilled out vibe, and we were able to walk around day or night without being bundled into a cab every 5 minutes!

We stayed at the big, yellow Libert Hotel, which has more of a posada feel. The rooms are very compact but there are lots of cute chill out areas and a pool to enjoy a glass of vino, and the staff and breakfast were both great. Libert is set a block back from the main road, and in the evenings you need to walk down a dark alleyway – so pack a torch!

Hotel Libert

Hotel Libert

Hotel Libert

El Yaque is famous for windsurfing, but if that’s not your thing there are a variety of bars along the beach to relax and watch the buff men doing their thing. Rocky’s at the quieter end of the beach is particularly nice for sipping cocktails and eating fresh fish for a late lunch. Early evenings seem to be when the bars are at their busiest, Beach Bar and Sharkeys at the other end of the beach (although it’s not a long beach) are definitely worth checking out.

Cocktails at Rocky's, El Yaque

Lifeguards, El Yaque

We spent 2 nights in El Yaque then headed over to Isla De Coche. We were staying in Sunsol Punta Blanca and from chatting to the locals we discovered our hotel had a port 5 mins walk away, that would take us directly to Coche. The boat ride is about 20 minutes long and was relatively smooth on the way over, but don’t be fooled, it’s much rougher on the way back!

On arrival at Coche it was like stepping into a Sandals brochure; powder white sand, crystal clear still waters and everything you could want from a Caribbean island. Even the temperature seemed to turn up a notch!

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Isla de Coche

The hotel has a Caribbean vibe and is made up of a village of little huts which felt cute and quite rustic thanks to their outside showers (note – make sure you check the shower times as the water only runs for set periods).

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There is very little to do in the evenings as the main bar closes at 11pm, making it perfect for couples, but even as girls who like to party we would highly recommend visiting Coche as it was our favourite beach by a mile, we witnessed a magical sunset and it definitely shouldn’t be missed off of any itinerary.

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Leaving Coche was hard, but we were heading back North and knew the ropes! Our final stop was Lidotel Agua Dorada. The setting is dramatic, with mountain views from the pool, and then beautiful Playa Agua on your doorstep.

Playa Agua

Knowing that tourism is dead in this area, we went back to Porlamar in the evening, stopping at La Tequila for dinner. This restaurant is a must; it’s wonderfully camp, they have the best Margaritas in town, everyone gets to wear a sombrero and if you can sing in Spanish there is karaoke to entertain! The food is also great and very good value; our dinner and drinks cost approx. £4 per head. Of course, we couldn’t leave the island without saying goodbye to our favourite venue; Bora Bora, to dance the night away to the sounds of J Balvin and sipping on Cuba Libres.

La Tequila, Porlamor

Saying goodbye to Isla de Margarita was so sad as we really didn’t want to leave, and when our flight was delayed to the mainland we almost didn’t! We learnt from our travels in Nicaragua to always leave a day between connecting to the mainland and flying home, and this time it certainly paid off! Our final night saw us back in the Marriott in Caracas and contemplating flying to Los Roques, but we consoled ourselves with the thought of returning – maybe even later this year – as there is just so much more to explore in this beautiful country!

Venezuela Uncovered: English Girls in Margarita…

Everyone loves a Margarita and that was pretty much our inspiration for embarking on a trip to Venezuela. The Caribbean coast is one of our favourite places to explore; beautiful beaches, rum and a party vibe is always guaranteed and that certainly ticks our boxes! Little did we know how controversial it was going to become for a group of girls to choose Venezuela as a holiday destination.

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When you start researching Venezuela, one of the main attractions is Angel Falls, we were certainly keen to see this wonder of the world but unfortunately our timing was off!  We got it right for sunshine but wrong for rain… So the next decision was based on beaches. Knowing that we wanted to go to Isla de Margarita it was logical to base ourselves there and leave a few days spare in case there was a sudden downfall of rain and we could make it to the falls. The other consideration was to travel to other islands such as Los Roques but it was looking quite expensive for internal flights based on the official exchange rate.

The exchange rate is the first learning for anyone new to Venezuela. When we travelled it was officially $1=$6 Bolivars, in reality the rate varied from $170-$240 per US dollar so more than a little bit out! If we had known that before we travelled we would have packed in a few more flights! Our internal flights from Caracas to Margarita we believed to be £150, and thought it was odd that they only debited £4 on booking, our assumption was that this was to test our card, but in reality that was the total cost of our return flight.

We’re not sure if it was the jetlag but it did take us a while to catch on to the strange pricing on arrival; our cab from Simon Bolivar to the Marriott Hotel 10 mins down the road was $1,000 Bol, our cocktails on arrival were $1,000 Bol and our internal flights the next day were $1,200 Bol. No one seemed to be able to explain how you can get a 45 min return flight for the same cost as 2 Pina Coladas but either way we are talking about £3-£4 – crazy!

Arriving in Simon Bolivar airport was unexpectedly pleasant. Just before we left, the BBC2 Simon Reeves Caribbean programme described Caracas as dangerous as being in a war zone! Other stories report of gangs robbing people in the airport, so we were obviously cautious, dressed like backpackers and minus jewellery with a selfie stick to fend off any muggers!

The reality was that the staff were very helpful, we had pre-arranged a cab with the Marriott who were waiting for us on arrival and we were checked in within 10 minutes of leaving the airport. There are lots of people asking you if you want to exchange money, but at this stage we didn’t need any as you could bill everything to your room so we thought we would check out the situation further before we committed to anything. It’s important to note that exchanging money on the black market is illegal, so you need to consider who you are trading with!

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After a very comfortable and convenient night in the Marriott, we made our way back to Simon Bolivar to jet off to Margarita. Wary that we did need to change some dollars, and not quite sure who to trust in Caracas, plus, we kind of ran out of time, we plumped for the official exchange cambio office in the airport. We got an exchange of $192 Bol + 10% commission. Not fantastic, but we changed enough to buy us a day in Margarita and would re-assess once we reached the island.

So, after a very swift 45 minute Aeropostal flight, we descended over turquoise waters and touched down in Margarita. Now we were ready for a holiday! As we were basing our holiday purely in Margarita, we decided to really road test the island and stay in a different area every few days.

Our first port of call? Playa el Agua in the north of the island. Our first 3 nights were to be spent in Sunsol Isla Caribe, which was actually an all-inclusive hotel (£35 per night). It was everything you’d expect from a Caribbean all-inclusive; it was big, fun, a little bit naff and packed full of families (Venezuelan mainly, there were no English, European or American tourists anywhere – except us!).

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It was a really great place to kick-start our trip, catch a few rays and decide what to do with our rogue days. We sunbathed/burned, ate, drank, met some lovely Argentinian guys and made friends with some Venezuelan teenage girls in the on-site discoteca! Mega lolz.

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We quickly came to realise that there wasn’t much life outside of the hotels in Margarita – by night at least, unless you drove to Pampatar or Porlamar. Due to a general decrease in tourism, there is little to no nightlife in Agua, and we were told it was too dangerous to go wandering around at night. However, we met a few characters on the beach during the day, which led us to our next money exchange. This time in the back of a café at a rate of $220. Tip: take a large bag during these exchanges, you end up with a lot of notes!

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We also booked a jeep safari tour through our money man. We went with Gustavo Lopez of Island Tours (islandtoursmarg@hotmail.com) and paid $20 dollars each which included transportation, drinks, lunch and stops at La Asuncion (Margarita’s capital and home to the country’s oldest cathedral), Castillo Santa Rosa (for great views), Valle del Espiritu Santo (a village with a really cute pastel church and market) and then on to La Restinga national park and a lovely boat tour where we saw starfish, seahorses and lots of pelicans.

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Next stop was a great fresh fish lunch at a restaurant on the beach at Playa La Pared (which was virtually deserted and felt like just ours). After a little dip in the sea we were back on the road to Juan Griego and headed to the top of town in time for a beautiful sunset.

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With our rogue days just around the corner and still no sign of rain, we knew our visit to the falls would be fruitless, and with the realisation of the amazing exchange rate we decided to spend our un-booked time in a hotel we’d researched back in the UK but assumed we couldn’t afford. However, cash is king in Venezuela, so by paying direct in Bolivars, we were lucky enough to book two nights in this beautiful (and it really is beautiful) hotel for £25 per night when we thought it would cost us at least $250.

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Ikin is the ultimate relaxation retreat, with its Feng Shui layout and infinity pool you relax the minute you walk through the arch. The hotel only has around 50 rooms, so even when the hotel is close to full capacity the layout allows you to feel like you have the whole hotel to yourself. Normally we love to hang out by the beach but with that pool, we didn’t ever want to leave thanks to the constant supply of cocktails, sun cream and a chilled-in-Ibiza-style DJ! The only thing to tempt us away from the pool was the spa. Overlooking the sea and listening to the sound of the waves, a hot stone massage is something everyone needs to experience and all for only around £7. The oils used not only smelt incredible, but made our sun-damaged skin feel hydrated and back to life!

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Evenings at Ikin are a lot quieter than Sunsol, but the food in the restaurant was so fresh, and there was a good selection of white wine – something that’s hard to come by in Margarita. We were there during the week, so didn’t venture into the city to party by night, and instead we hung out, drank wine and chatted away to the really lovely staff. That is definitely one thing we’d say above everything else this beautiful hotel has to offer, the staff are incredible, and the relaxed atmosphere belies the fact that it is actually really luxurious. We weren’t walking on egg shells or trying to look glam – although a lot of the guests are just that; think boob and bum jobs squeezed into designer swimwear – the vibe is perfect and it was our favourite place in Margarita to stay, by far.

After our R&R retreat at Ikin, we had reached Friday night, and there was only one place to head; Pampatar, to let our hair down and swing those hips to some reggaeton beats. We’ll be posting about our adventures in Pampatar, Porlamar, El Yaque and Coche in our next post, so stay tuned for part two – it’s coming soon.